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Terms under which this service is provided to you. We had come to Fray Bentos through Carmelo, the most northern terminal for ferries from Buenos Aires, and somewhere else with a delicious sense of forgotten time and place.
The old wine district of Colonia Estrella is just 15 minutes by bike from Carmelo, across pancake-flat fields and empty roads, where we stayed at a lodge and boutique winery, Campo Tinto. Uruguay is often overlooked, sandwiched between Argentina and Brazil, its two vast neighbours so famous for their beauty and culture.
But the country is blessed with a charming landscape, extremely friendly people and a unique and fascinating history, and perhaps the most consistently progressive country in Latin America. It also offers tourists another rare incentive to visit. So when you return home you can savour the steady flow of refunds along with your memories. Most of the hotels in Carmelo offer bicycles with the room, or rent them out for a nominal fee, and it is a wonderful place to cycle, almost pancake flat, with wide, largely empty roads.
Cars can be rented from Marino Sport, who are very flexible on pick up and drop-off locations, and will come to you for a small fee. Or there are buses from Carmelo to Fray Bentos twice daily. Book here. Most of Fray Bentos is walkable, or the hotel can help you find taxis. Entrevinas is a romantic cabin for two, set among the Bodega Cordana vineyards; in the mornings breakfast will be left in a basket on the porch, otherwise you will be undisturbed.
Campo Tinto has an excellent restaurant and small swimming pool to enjoy, along with the wines. Campotinto has an excellent restaurant and small swimming pool. Fray Bentos: a town in Uruguay — not just a meat pie.
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